The Right Shirt? The White Shirt!

Unlike women's fashion, which can change hugely from one season to the next, men's style tends to favor variations on tried and tested staples. Open any men's fashion rag and you'll see the words 'classic' and 'basic' very often. That's why the labels love to sell the solid white shirt so much: you can't get any more classic and much more basic than the solid white shirt. It's a timeless piece every guy over 20 should own in abundance.

The solid white shirt performs at its strongest when you get it as described: solid white. A plain, unadorned white shirt is one of the most versatile pieces you could own; they can go with everything from tailored pants to cutoff shorts. Don't buy ones with epaulettes, embroidery and such until you have a big set of the simple, white-buttoned variety.

One thing you'll notice about men's fashion is the emphasis that everyone puts on fit and cut. Nowhere else are bespoke and custom items valued so much. Cut and fit are given even more importance on the solid white shirt because it's a piece that sculpts and shapes your torso. A slim (but not body-hugging) fit is crucial to a sharp-looking white shirt. A fitted chest, sag-free arms and a slightly cinched waist all help improve your silhouette.

Fabric quality is another major consideration when buying a solid white shirt. Even the most expensive silk tie can't hide a cheap polyester shirt. A plain white shirt will remain just that – plain, white and blah – with mediocre materials. Higher grade fabrics like linen blends, meanwhile, make your shirt stand out right away, necktie or no necktie.

Going custom-made isn't always the best option now that so many store-bought choices are available, but bespoke is still the way to go with white shirts. Not only are they very fit-conscious, but you're likely to get a lot of style mileage out of them anyway. It's a combination that adds to the value proposition of getting all of them tailored.

Versatility is one of the foremost strengths of the solid white shirt, and you're more likely to run out of things to wear it with. Whether flat-front khaki shorts or inky black jeans are all you have left in your closet, a crisp white shirt will have you looking ready to go.

Consistency is perhaps one of the biggest challenges with a white shirt. Since it's so easy to dress up and dress down, a lot of men tend to leave the whole outfit ambiguous. Are you turning up the formal tonight? Wear a tie and cuff links to go all the way with natty details. Is it a laid back Saturday afternoon? Break out the jeans, roll up the sleeves and maybe undo one more button at the top than what you usually leave open.

Men's style rewards the experimenter, the Marc Jacobs or the Thom Browne who does things that people think are crazy. Should you ever have the urge to play around with your wardrobe a bit, have a white shirt at the ready.

Have you been thinking about wearing formal attire with a skinny tie rather than bow tie? Don a waistcoat and loafers with your shirt, and maybe add a bow tie for good measure. What about trying a neon trend? Wear a fluorescent necktie with a white shirt and classic slacks. The sheer versatility of the white shirt isn't just for daily office wear; it's also good news for the little fashion daredevil hiding in all of us.

Shirts, Ties & Life

For a while, the solid-colored shirt with a tie of the same (or slightly-off) color was seen everywhere. Some called this look monochromatic (I called it silly - but I digress). This was made wildly popular by Regis Philbin while he hosted "Who Wants to be a Millionaire?" and is now a somewhat dated look. Try mixing things up a little and experiment with colors. Ties are great way to express yourself, but keeping it tasteful is your best bet. You can't go wrong with diagonal stripes, modern polka-dots, plaids and subtle patterns. Just make sure your tie compliments your shirt, suit, sweater or whatever you will be wearing it with. Novelty ties are best avoided since the novelty is short lived.

The width of neckties has always seemed to change with the fashion trend of the moment. However, traditional style lends itself to neckties which are in balance with the size of the jacket lapels. A traditional American or British garment or any finely made European garment requires a necktie 3¼" to 3½" in width. A good tie is cut to 3½", with exceptions for larger men who require a slightly wider blade (the outer, visible portion of the necktie.) This is a size that will never be affected by the vicissitudes of fashion. The length should be approximately 56 to 57 inches. A longer tie, for taller men, is generally 60 to 61 inches. The measurement of the widest parts of good butterfly bow ties is 2¾".

Fine neckwear is entirely handmade. Originally all four-in-hand neckties were cut from a single large square of silk, which was folded over 7 times to give it body and fullness. Only a few ties are made in this way today, because of the high cost of silk and the absence of many remaining artisans. However, every finely made necktie is still cut on this bias, to assure that it falls straight after being tied, without curling to a side.

The silk for a necktie is cut into 3 pieces to include the back, the front, and the neck, allowing it to conform to your neck; it should have a stitch joining the two sides on the back, called a bar tack, and applied by hand. It should have a slip-stitch, whose end, knotted, can be found loose under the bar tacked area. This stitch gives resilience to the tie and assures that it will fall out to return to its original shape when hung in your closet. All ties, except 7 fold neckties, are lined. The object of the lining is to provide the proper weight for the tie, so that it knots perfectly. With some silk, a heavier lining is needed to accomplish this; with other silks, it is quite the opposite. In fact, sometimes makers of lesser ties will attempt to pass them off as quality materials by adding a thick lining, as an uneducated consumer might think the thickness of the tie indicates the quality of the outer silk. Fine linings today are made of wool, whose weight is denoted by gold bars.

Ties should be tied in whatever style most strikes your fancy. You should know that there are many different ways to knot your tie, and different knots say different things. A necktie should be tied so that there is no collar space showing at the knot. The tip of the tie should end at the belt, not above it. Bow ties are always to-be-tied, and come in adjustable neck sizes. Nevertheless, regardless of the neck size, the bow itself must finish within the contours of the wearer's face, and inside the collar edges, to look trim and avoid buffoonery. I prefer the Windsor or the four-in-hand, but I do suggest that you explore a little just for kicks. As for clip on ties--just say no. Period.

Get the belt!

ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS match your belt with your shoes. This is always a good rule to follow and it keeps things simple. The best choice is to stay with traditional colors such a black, dark brown or a rich tan. In particular, a black belt works with khakis, jeans, suits, everything; it is the one belt every man should own. Colors beyond these will be more difficult to match, and generally speaking, should be avoided. If you wear sneakers every day that probably means you are wearing jeans in which case I suggest trying a belt made of fabric or something equally as casual, but please avoid wearing dress belts with jeans and sneakers. You'll look like you haven't a clue. Now, if you wear suspenders, I am compelled to ask you why, but I digress. Just don't wear a belt and suspenders together, it's one or the other.